The trailer generator prep uses 50 amp 4 wire. If you’re not qualified to work on live circuits, then PLEASE get an electrician or RV tech to help you with testing. We powered our large refrigerator, my wife's oxygen concentrator (for COPD), two lights, two fans, and kept our smartphones charged. Not a big deal really, since that by itself should not cause a hot-skin condition or damage anything. With a pair of EU2000 generators I could run some serious experiments and document how this all works in real world hookups like you have. If so, that should already do a G-N bond when in “Generator” position. I was able to start and run the 13,500 BTU A/C unit on my camper with it. But what happens in a building (e.g. Am I getting fault protection in standalone mode? My scenario is: I have a 2kw inverter generator with a floating neutral. It will be supplying emergency power to house. I’ll know in about a week. I converted both units to natural gas. I have a 9000/12000 w energy cube generator works good on everything even my welder(240v)except home furnace, will this neutral grounding plug fix furnace problem(York furnace) sent emails to supplier and only respince is furnace is to big, my dads 3000w Coleman runs it with no problems. That being said, while its specifically a code violation to do so, I suspect there many thousands (or more) G-N bonded portable generators hooked into G-N bonded home service panels at this very moment, and I’ve never heard a single report of any safety issues or generator damage cause by this practice. I purchased and installed an interlock kit for my main panel, and installed an L14-30 twist lock power inlet box on the outside of the house. But when the transfer switch is set to receive shore power, your RV expects the external power source to bond its Ground and Neutral wires together. However, in distributed power systems such as a music stage, this allows one single amplifier on stage with a hot-to-earth short, to AC bias the safety ground of the entire system. I need some help. I notice all this happens when batteries are charging, When batteries are full it seems to stabilize. Trying to figure out why this isn’t working on my Research Technology Surge Guard surge protector on my Honda Inverter generator. Yes, I believe that the Champion generators all have a true floating neutral. #4 I have completely forgotten why I was looking this up, although I think it has something to do with inverters. I’ve tried to get both manufacturers to fund some consumer articles written by me on the subject, but so far my requests have been ignored. I have a similar situation. In addition, your extension cords should probably have GFCI protection on the outlets (NOT at the generator) to protect you from accidental shocks between hot and earth. no problem. So you need to provide ONE G-N bond which is as simple as using the G-N bonding plug illustrated in this article. We have no problems on shore or campground power and all outlets including gfci’s work and test as they would in a normal household situation. So my underlying questions are: Should I be concerned that I can run on generator power without the bonding plug installed? Here’s what I have: Without the G-N Edison jumper, plugged in to the generator, I have: 120- v Neutral to Ground, and 120-v hot to Neutral, and ZERO volts hot to ground. I did some readings using a multimeter and noticed the following. My previous note was for all those generator owners who CAN’T float the neutral. A durable wrap-around hand truck frame and 10 in. Also, even though it’s not specifically required by code, I feel that any generator feeding multiple power drops (which I assume you’ll be doing from your 4-outlet box) SHOULD have an 8-ft ground rod connected (bonded) to the generator’s GROUND terminal, which I’m sure it has. Thank you for the wisdom you share. Above, several have mentioned a list showing which generators have floating or bonded neutrals. Yes, you should create the bonding plug for your Champion generator. ]. I do know that EVERY factory installed generator in an RV does have a G-N bond, typically made inside of the generator transfer switch. I ask because our local code guy has fully bought into the NEC guidelines of requiring expensive AFCI or GFCI on every circuit in the building. And there’s a strong possibility that this short is in your transfer switch since I think you had that replaced. I use an interlock system UL listed. I have the same question for using two Yamaha EF2000iSv2 with the sidewinder cable. And you need to confirm that there’s no neutral to ground bonding screw installed in your RV’s breaker panel. Well, the electricity company didn’t end up cutting off our power until later in the day, so we didn’t need the generator at all! Looks like it will take a major NoShockZone campaign with NEC references to get the point across to these generator manufacturers. You have been a great help. I know the entire system is floating being on a trailer, and this falls under a different set of rules, however I’m not familiar with them all. Do you agree? My setup is almost the same as John P in that I have a load center with three breakers and three outlets, ( that are not connected to any existing wiring or the house panel) that I intend to use for the boiler pump a freezer and a sump pump. But I’ll reserve my judgement until the manufacturer confers with me. So yes, adding the G-N bonding plug should be safe and offer continued operation of your surge/voltage protector. At 120 volts on the pos pole? Any ideas? As a weekend warrior involved in many projects to save a buck, I can say without doubt that you are providing info that generator manufacturers and sellers have not made clear. I want to double check. No, I don’t have any schematics for you generator. I did not have time to run the plug in tester this morning but I will try later today and let you know what I find. Now there’s several things that could be doing this, two that could be very bad, and the other not so bad. Walt, thanks for emailing me the schematic. Just plug it in and start it up…. Also should I connect the generator gnd lug to a gnd rod? I read in the multitude of posts above that the Honda 7000 IS (I forget the whole letter group) already has the bound neutral. I want to feed from the generator to a receptacle via a generator extension chord (10/4 with L14-30 male and female plugs). Nelson, You can confirm the G-N bond using a simple 3-light outlet tester making sure the two yellow/amber lights are on, and not the red light. 2- Can I simply bond the G-N bus inside the breaker panel on the trailer instead? Since this is an off-grid installation and there is no grid-tie with a utility, the Magnum Mini Panel/Magnum Inverter will have a single Neutral-to-Ground bond already (actually one for AC and one for DC), and will be grounded to a ground rod located in the vicinity of the power center. I have read here and on the Champion website that most Champion generators have a floating neutral. I now have a Honda EU2000 inverter gen now my Heart Interface 1800 EMS blinks with error of reverse polarity. I live in York ME if that helps with code. If so, then it needs to comply with RVIA wiring standards. I received this email from a reader who wants to power his RV from a Honda portable generator. So, given that, do I need to do the Edison plug (i.e. I plugged in an extension cord and wired it into my furnace with the hot, neutral and ground wiring. This makes sense. There is no breaker panel on the camp. Thanks for the quick reply. I have both the companion and the regular 2000 and the Honda parallel kit. Your web site has been a wealth of knowledge to me and I truly appreciate all the time and effort you have put into it! Lack of manufacturer support is frustrating to say the least……, Sincerely The parallel kit works great. This is a simple and cheap fix for a nagging problem. The problem is that my gfci plugs in the trailer don’t work when the generator is connected. That does look a great solution to connecting an already bonded generator into a home service panel, and it appears to be code compliant as far as I can tell. Second question regarding my generator. and having electrical knowledge and hopes to someday get licensed myself. He felt it better to bond the two. I found the firebox wouldn’t release the gas for ignition because of the floating ground (my opinion), but the blower would operate. Can’t find this plug adapter anywhere, including Progressive Industries. Mike you are so incredibly generous with you time and provide great information. Here is the list I think you were talking about The non-gfci outlets work fine. Your transfer switch should not be able to separate your G-N-E bond in your service panel, only disconnect the appropriate loads and separate your generator power from the incoming power line. The GFCI went offline. The same thing happened when I plugged it into my “Made in China” 2500/5000 watt pure sine wave inverter connected to battery banks. That’s right, the chassis of your generator is connected to the safety ground wire in the generator’s power outlets. It strikes me that the generator frame is now connected to to ground through neutral, (and therefore bonded in the same manner as the meter socket box) and neither the frame nor the “ground wire” in the cord set are attached to ground. I have tested the generator with the trailer and it runs the A/C and the onboard battery charger with no problem. You are an incredibly generous person with your time and a true educator at heart. I then asked how to un-bond the neutral, and they would not give any info. So starting from my service panel (when the neutral is connected to ground via #6 wire to two ground rods as per Canadian code), going upstream, about 45 feet of neutral conductor run, that same neutral is attached to ground up the utility pole at the transformer, then following the neighbour’s overhead service conductors about 60 feet of conductor run, the same “neutral” is again connected to ground at his main service. What the manufactures should do is to put a simple switch to connect neutral and ground I was going to use a main lug box with two or three breakers and power the box threw the rv 30 amp plug. It quit. Updated link info for the compatible generator guide: http://www.generlink.com/files/127122125.pdf. Or should I not run the RV through the SurgeGuard from the generator at all? Across the neutral and hot from the generator I have 127 volts. I tried contacting Honda and they referred me to the dealer who also did not have an answer. Reading your post, indicates that I should create a plug, bonding the neutral to the ground? And no, you should not have to disconnect the inverter when running from generators. I have a Durostar DS4000S Generator which I believe has a floating neutral. It has a fixed connection of the cord set neutral (which Generlink refers to as neutral / ground, so I am presuming the cord set ground wires simply attached to the metal case of the switch) to the neutral in the meter base. Upon my disappointment when I came home and tried a trial run using my 30 amp inlet box and starting the Voltmaster XCR105, I immediately began getting a trip on the GFI on the main panel which is full GFI protected. Happy Camping! Adam Hunter Before doing so, I have to remove the ground screw in the panel that bonds the ground and neutral together or I trip the outlet. I wanted to update everyone and let you know what I’ve decided to do in my situation. The problem is that I have a lamp with a push button switch that has some type of fault test that has a red and green light that are labeled ok and fault. 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